Green Bear Spray Foam

Builders and Contractors are required by the State Building Code here in Massachusetts to apply a waterproofing membrane on the exterior of foundations in all areas that will be sub-grade (under the ground after backfilling.)

The most common products are asphalt and rubber based. As an experienced waterproofing professional I have seen these membranes fail quite regularly. Of course the quality of the spray and experience of the installers is key to a proper installation.

About 90% of the time the waterproofing membrane is covered with 1″-2″ of polystyrene insulation and it is usually attached by shooting nails into the foundation. These 2″ nails being shot into the foundation are a breeding ground for future foundation wall cracks.

So now what???

One inch of Closed-cell spray foam insulation is an approved vapor barrier with permeability being at, or below most asphalt and rubber based waterproofing membranes on the market. Closed-cell foam is approved for exterior and sub-grade applications.

One inch of closed-cell foam has an insulation r-value of between 6-8 depending upon the product. There are endless companies that offer a soy-based closed-cell spray foam insulation which are among the greenest products on the market. Adding a second inch of closed-cell spray foam will bring the r-value to 13 or higher.

So is it cost effective???

There is no doubt in my mind! As stated earlier I am also a waterproofing professional and have not only applied asphalt/rubber based products, I have priced and sold these projects.

These applications range from $.80/sq’ to $2.50/sq’ based on the product, quantity and whether insulation boards are added.

Applying closed-cell foam instead will cost from $.70 to $1.50/sq’ based on quantity and thickness.

So why not let this game changing product do just that! Out with the old and in with the new. It is time that builders learn the benefits of spray foam insulation and all of it’s uses.

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This post is in regards to which types of spray foam insulation are appropriate for the underside of a roof deck and why. It is another great open-cell versus closed-cell debate.

Unfortunately there is no clear cut answer to this question but I will summarize the benfits and disadvantages of each situation.

Using open-cell foam on the underside of a roof deck is an affordable option to obtain a very good R-value in a 10″+ joist cavity and to create that good air-seal which is the most remarkable benefit of all of the spray foam products and literally puts it miles ahead of many other insulation materials.

The greatest debate on this issue is in regards to moisture. Most companies will inform clients interested in open-cell foam on the roof deck that it is recommended that an approved vapor transmission barrier first be applied so as not to saturate the foam and reduce its effectiveness. However, in reality it is no different than installing fiberglass batts or other types of insulation materials as they too would lose 90% of their R-value when wet. We typically explain this to the customer and unless required by the building inspector it is usually overlooked.

So where is the debate? Great question. As an experienced spray foam insulation company we understand the cost-effectiveness of using open-cell products versus closed-cell. There are many local SPF companies that ONLY offer open-cell foam because it is MUCH harder to sell consumers on the benfits of closed-cell when comparing the price.

As a company that offers four different density spray foam products, both soy-based and non-soy, open-cell and closed-cell we know and understand the differences, limitations and most of all the profitability.

Sadly, companies have been using the excuse that closed-cell foam will trap moisture behind the foam causing wood to rot and mold issues. This is entirely a selling tactic and completely false. If your roof is in a condition where it is leaking then those issues should be resolved before ANY type of spray foam is applied to the underside of that roof.

So here is the difference with how the two types of spray foam will be affected by a roof that develops a leak. Closed-cell spray foam acts as a vapor barrier and will not absorb moisture. It will stop the moisture from entering the attic. Due to the heating and cooling effects of the roof the wet portion of the sheathing will typically dry itself out within 24 hours and not lead to any rot of mold issues. This means you will have the same R-value and a dry attic space with no indoor air quality issues caused by intruding moisture.

Open-cell spray foam installed with a vapor barrier should act the same way that closed-cell does because it is not affected by the moisture and the moisture would be “trapped” as the open-cell salesman explained. Without the vapor barrier the open-cell foam would absorb the moisture much like fiberglass and lose 90% of it’s effectiveness until dry. While wet this could potentially lead to a mold issue in the attic due to the added moisture accumulating on organic materials.

So which one is better? You decide!

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NOT all spray foam materials are created equal!

There are many different aspects to a properly applied spray foam product including it’s material makeup, application procedures and temperatures and also many other variables.

One major issue with soy-based spray foam insulation is the potential for shrinking. Due to some major research and product development breakthroughs shrinkage of spray foam is becoming less of a headache for spray foam installers and materials manufacturers.

Take a look at the pictures that are provided with this post. It is an image of spray foam applied to the roof deck in an attic space. There are many areas in this particular attic like this and most of them are in areas that have the hot sun beating down on the roof deck for hours every afternoon.

Though this is not a common occurrence, it is much more common on roof decks than any other area of a home. As stated, breakthroughs in the makeup of soy-based spray foam materials have virtually eliminated this occurrence.

If this happens to you…who is responsible? The spray foam installation company, the foam materials manufacturer…? Let us know your opinion, we appreciate it!

Shrinking foam causing gaps in air-seal

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One big challenge for electricians, cable companies, plumbers, etc. is fixing wiring and rewiring inside wall cavities filled with Spray Foam Insulation.

Homepath Products, LLC may have come up with the perfect solution.

The current practice when wiring before spray foam is applied is that whichever wires may be needed should be installed before the foam is applied in every possible area that may one day need said wires. Unfortunately running wires for cable, Cat5 and other cables are usually thought of AFTER the construction is complete.

Here is an excerpt from the article posted on Sprayfoam.com

“Homepath Products suggests that pre-installing a system of spray-foam-friendly cabling pathways will save homeowners time, money and aggravation by making homes readily adaptable to future wiring and broadband needs. With eXapath, adding or upgrading Cat5, Cat6, coaxial, fiber optic, security, audio or automation wiring is simple and practical.”

Here is a link to the full article http://www.sprayfoam.com/npps/story.cfm?nppage=251

Should you have any questions about wiring procedures in preparation for your spray foam project please call 1-877-941-4733 or contact us through our email support@greenbearinnovations.com

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Here at Green Bear Innovations we only use soy-based spray foam insulation. Our spray foam has industry leading renewables content and performs as good or better than strictly polyurethane based products.

Due to the once again rising costs of crude oil, striclty polyurethane spray foam insulation materials cost is expected to rise rapidly. The materials cost the manufacturer more, thereby costing the spray foam company more. Unfortunately the end result will be an increased cost to the homeowner/builder interested in upgrading to this superinsulating material.

So will spray foam become unaffordable?

No way! Because our soy-based spray foam is rich in soybean oil (made right here in the good old USA) the cost of our materials is not expected to rise, at all. So Green Bear Innovations can continue to offer an excellent soy-based spray foam product for your remodeling, home building and other needs at an EXCEPTIONAL value.

If you are interested in spray foam insulation, get a Free Estimate. Call 1-877-941-4733. You can also check out our website at http://greenbearinnovations.com for more information about our products and wide range of other services.

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Took the liberty to answer an oft asked set of questions from a homeowner in a forum and figured I would post it here.

Foam insulation – do it yourself? Pros? Cons? Safe for hot water pipes and wiring?

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The benefits of insulating attics is not only vital to reducing energy use and costs in the cold Winter months. It is the most important step to reducing cooling costs in the hot, Summer months.

So should you add significant amounts of blown cellulose to the attic floor? Or, spray foam insulation between the rafters on the roof deck?

It depends on whether you have heating/AC units in the attic or other appliances and whether you want to gain the effects of air-sealing. It also depends on whether you want to prevent ice damming in the Winter and extend the life of your roof.

The location of the thermal barrier is really the major question here. If you insulate just the attic floor then the attic itself is not an insulated space. You are boxing in the home below the attic and leaving the attic uninsulated and unconditioned. So why does that matter?

In some cases it really does not matter. Having no heating/AC units in the attic, no major appliances, little concern for the affect of temperature on stored items in the attic, no ice dams in the winter and have an efficiently designed roof means you are the perfect candidate for blowing in cellulose on the attic floor or installing fiberglass in the same way. (Installing fiberglass in the attic requires you to have some form of ventilation because fiberglass needs to breath to be effective. Typically soffitt vents, a ridge vent and baffles are used to solve this problem. Cellulose does not require breathing.)

However, if you do have heating/AC units located in the attic along with ductwork you should consider making the attic itself a conditioned space to increase the efficiency of these units/systems by spraying foam insulation between the rafters of the roof deck.

Other benefits of adding spray foam to the underside of your roof:

Air sealing benefits. Above and beyond R-values, an airtight attic is essential to conditioning of you whole house.

Ice dams. By insulating directly onto the underside of your roof you will experience significantly less or eliminate ice dams during the winter. Ice dams are caused by unnatural melting of roof snow/ice due to the escape of heat from your home causing the water to refreeze when it reaches the overhangs/eaves.

Many shingle companies say that spraying foam on your roof deck will reduce the life of the shingles and they sometimes use this as an excuse to void a warranty. It is just not true. Studies have shown that spraying closed-cell foam insulation in an attic can extend the life of your roof by up to 30%.

Hopefully by now you have a better understanding about the different ways of insulating your attic. Visit http://greenbearinnovations.com for more information about our products and services.

Please note that when sealing and attic space we recommend installing an HRV system to ensure that moisture build up is eliminated and that stagnant air is being exponged and replaced with fresh, conditioned ai Even duringr.

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Hello readers!

Thank you all so much for your interest and constant feedback!

Today was Day 2 in Wakefield, MA. We are spraying 1.8 Lb. closed-cell Emega Soy-based Spray Foam Insulation in the wall cavities and roof rafters to ensure a tight seal. This house was gutted and renovated and all of the spray areas are exposed. Three inches in the walls (R-20) and five inches in the rafters (R-33). The understatement is the R-value as far as spray foam goes.

Spray foam can insulate and seal cavities that fiberglass simply cannot. Around pipes, corner joists, behind bathtubs…the possibilities are endless. Taking an R-value and multiplying the air-sealing effects makes spray foam insulation an unbeatable choice.

The biggest challenge when installing spray foam insulation is ensuring that the home is completely air sealed, especially in a renovation project. There is an endless amount of gaps and holes in corner joints, behind built-in units, above and below poorly measured studs, etc…

The one thing that installing spray foam insulation can ensure is that your home will withstand the harsh environmental conditions exponentially better than if you were to use a fiberglass product. Not only can it keep the inside from feeling the effects of the outside temperature but closed-cell spray foam significantly increases the structural integrity of the home.

To learn more about our products and services visit http://www.greenbearinnovations.com or call for a Free Estimate today at 1-877-941-4733

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As a company, we know the do-it-yourself spray foam insulation kits can be very useful. In fact we keep a kit aside for touch ups because it is easier to touch up any spots that were missed or where the foam overshrunk the next day with a portable kit instead of setting up the entire spray foam rig and dragging the hose for a few small details.

In fact, we have turned to the DIY materials once or twice to complete small jobs when our equipment was being serviced. Even the smallest jobs are a pain in the neck when dragging a couple of 50 lb. tanks behind you.

The misconception that I want to address is that because these DIY spray foam insulation kits are readily available and somewhat affordable, many folks are not considering the fact that they are overpaying for these kits and end up struggling through the installations. Spraying foam properly takes some experience.

The lesser expensive products on the market, such as “Foam-it-green” usually run homeowners about $1.00 per board foot. A board foot is one square foot of spray foam at one inch thickness. This is actually a reasonable price for installed spray foam insulation in a low-competition market.

But it is not a good price. Maybe that is due to the competetiveness of the spray foam insulation industry here in Massachusetts. Prices fluctuate for many reasons including total board foot calculation, location, and the season makes a big difference because of the effects of outside temperature on the yield of the foam.

I would say that the average of our 1.8 lb. closed-cell soy-based spray foam insulation is around $.75/board foot. There are many times when we reduce the rate as described above. That cost includes all materials, installation, etc.

I am writing this because I have been seeing the enourmous marketing campaigns by these DIY spray foam companies and would like to offer a guarantee to Massachusetts residents that we will undoubtedly beat the board foot price on any project of 500 Bd. Ft. or more.

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$5 Billion has been set aside by the US government to assist low- to mid-income families in the weatherization of their homes.

The income requirement will be extended to families earning 200% of the federal income poverty level. The former requirement was 150% of the poverty level.

Weatherization includes caulking/foaming around windows and doors, upgrading insulation for attics, walls and more.

Here is a link to the full article:
http://www.cnn.com/2009/POLITICS/04/14/stimulus.weatherization/index.html

It seems to make perfect sense to us. Air-sealing and weatherizing a home can save homeowners 50% or more on their annual heating and cooling costs. Most of the families that will qualify for assistance are already receiving utility and fuel assistance from federally funded programs.

The long term effects will be a tremendous amount of money saved for the federal government, which will hopefully interpret into lower taxes or at least reallocation of those taxes toward education, public interest and other underfunded categories.

A benefit that can easily be overlooked will be the decrease in energy expenditure for these homes and a carbon footprint reduction.

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